CBC Marketplace Real Estate Report

Inspection Insites: Sick House Syndrome
Courtesy of Pillar To Post, Glen Wright Collingwood.

Keep Cool Without Blasting The Air Conditioner

These low-tech tricks won't just help you beat the heat this summer - they'll also lower your electric bill.

1. Block the sun's rays! Apply self-cling reflective film (available at home improvement stores) on south facing windows. It'll allow light in while reducing the heat that comes through the glass by as much as 70%!
2. Switch bulbs! Trade incandescent bulbs - especially halogens - for fluorescent ones, which give off less heat.
3. Be appliance smart! Instead of baking or broiling in the oven, use the microwave or toaster over, grill meals outdoors or serve cold dishes like salads.
4. Boost your AC's cooling power! Turn on on a ceiling or electric fan while the air conditioner is running and you can raise the AC's thermostat four full money saving degrees without sacrificing comfort.
5. Plant some trees! The Department of Energy estimates that shade provided by three trees planted around your house can shave up to $250 off your annual cooling bill!

Many Canadians, particularly those in the North, have experienced the effects of frozen plumbing or heating system vent stacks. By taking a few preventative measures, risky trips onto a frozen roof in the middle of winter to thaw out frozen vent stacks can be greatly reduced.

The concern with frozen vent stacks is that moisture carried by exhaust air in the plumbing system or heating system may condense inside cold vent stacks before it has been safely vented from the house. Exhaust air from the plumbing or heating system may then enter the house. There are two main strategies used to prevent this: make the portion of the vent stack that is exposed to cold winter air as short as possible; and keep it as warm as possible.

Potential Causes of Vent Stack Blockages

Mechanical ventilation systems, even fairly well designed, require some effort to keep functioning properly in areas where snow accumulation can be large and in areas where winter temperatures are extremely low for extended periods of time. Winter blockages are generally attributed to one of two causes: snow and exhausted moisture. Snow allowed to build up on the roof-top surrounding the vent stacks may bury the pipe if not cleared away. Exhaust gases that pass through ventilation stacks, chimneys and flues that exhaust combustion gases from fuel-heating devices contain vaporized water. These gases can get so cold while passing through vent stacks that the water vapour condenses, collects on the interior walls of the stack and freezes.

How To Prevent Freeze-Up

The portion of the stack that is located within the warm envelope of the house4 will not freeze, so efforts to reduce frost build-up should focus on the part of the vent stack that is not protected by the warm interior. There are a number of methods that, when combined, minimize the chance of vent stack freeze-up:

• A PVC "Y" clean-out valve should be installed by a plumber on the plumbing wall in the bathroom area so that the vent can be manually unplugged. This is done by opening the aces panel, unscrewing the threaded cap and cleaning out the vent at the roofline with a flexible wire rod or by blowing warm air into the vent.
• The vent stack should terminate as close to the roof as possible, reducing exposed vent stack area. However; a very short vent stack is at risk of being buried in snow. The vent stack should extend 20 cm above the roof, wrapped in rigid foam insulation and a metal collar to reduce the potential for frost.
• In buildings using non-ventilated roof systems, standard PVC pip used for the inside surface of vent stacks with an outer skin of galvanized steel helps to reduce frost build-up inside the pipe.
• Heat and plumbing exhausts can be "twinned" so that the heating vent warms the plumbing vent. The heat transferred by this method is usually just enough to prevent icing.
• Vent stacks can be wrapped with thermostatically controlled heat tape if the pipe is accessible. There are a variety of types of heat tapes that are available for different purposes. Those that are on at all times are good for regularly monitored, metal pipes. Temperature regulated heat tapes have a built-in thermostats, enabling the heat tape to turn off or on when a pre-set temperature is reached. These work well in places that are difficult to reach or check regularly, and are the most economical. Self-regulating heat tapes increase the flow of electricity to the tape as the pipe gets colder and decrease the flow as the pipe is warmed. This kind of heat tape is never actually off, so continues to use electricity as long as it is plugged in. Consult a service representative to determine the proper kind of heat tape for your purposes. Regardless of the type of heat tape you choose, it is critical that the heat tape be properly installed to prevent fire. Some heat tapes must not overlap or touch themselves, unless specifically permitted in the manufacturer's instructions. If the electrical insulation is damaged or deteriorated in any way, the heat tape should be replaced.

Chimney Stacks

Chimney stacks function in a very similar way to ventilation stacks, and are also susceptible to frost blockages. The first step in in avoiding freeze-up in this kind of vent termination is to determine why there is an excess of ice build-up at the level of the appliance, and then make the appropriate adjustments. Incomplete combustion is one common factor to consider. Keep the vent stack temperature high for more efficient combustion.

Low vent stack temperatures result in condensation, which freezes and builds up over the winter, eventually leading to blockage. Higher efficiency furnaces and household mechanical systems may, in fact, be more prone to stack freeze-up since less heat is exhausted.

Some heating units have air-intak4e and combustion-exhaust pipes that end near one another outside the house. The warm, moisture-laden exhaust air passing near the cold air-intake pipe can condense on it and freeze during extreme cold. Outdoor exhaust vents should be located at least 1 m from the fresh-air intake where it will not be susceptible to snow accumulation or discharge directly into the prevailing wind. A review of snow drifting patterns should be done when locating the intake as poorly positioned air-intake vents may be blocked by snow drifts, impeding the operation of the system for many months of the year.

In addition, chimney condensation problems can often be prevented by installing insulated stovepipes for chimney's on any type of furnace or heater. Wood-stove owners should burn only well-dried wood to reduce the amount of water vapour carried out in the smoke. Chimney lengths should be kept within the heated building envelope as much as possible, installed within the house rather than on an outside wall to minimize exposure to cold and maintain sufficient draft at the appliance. The exposed exterior length should be kept to a minimum. If your chimney stack freezes up frequently, consider temporarily removing the chimney cap.

How to thaw frozen ventilation stacks

If your heating or ventilation system begins to malfunction during severe cold, check the pipes and remove any blockages. An electric hair dryer can be particularly useful for this; flame torches should not be used to thaw vent stacks. On some installations, hot water can be poured over the outside portion of the intake pipe to melt the frost block.

Information provided by Ontario Real Estate Association E-Edge Newsletter October 2005

Dirty, smelly and expensive; these are three common misconceptions about oil heat about which the Canadian Oil Heating Association (COHA) would like to clear the air. The association is on a mission to improve the image of oil heat to one that invokes the image of “clean, efficient and modern.”

The association has launched a REALTOR Partnership Program on the Today’s Oil Heat web site (www.todaysoilheat.com) to give REALTORS exposure to over one million oil heat customers in Canada. By educating the public and REALTORS about the benefits of oil heat and the improvements the industry has made over the years, the COHA hopes to gain consumer confidence. That confidence has been shaken lately by much publicized concerns about underground oil tanks and insurance issues. The COHA says there’s a lack of good information out there so the public isn’t getting the whole story.

Even with international events and the effects of Hurricane Katrina and the concern these events are causing home owners about the costs of heating, the COHA maintains that oil heat is the best value for home heating. According to the COHA, oil heat is a lot cleaner than it was 25 years ago and today’s high-efficiency fuel oil appliances operate in the 85 per cent range with some ultra modern furnaces in the 95 per cent efficiency range entering the market. Emissions from oil burning equipment have been reduced to near zero levels and the industry says it has continuously decreased the amount of sulphur in fuel oil leading to better air quality.

COHA says oil heat creates no dirt, and no odour, and because it’s hotter than any other home heating source – one litre of oil gives off 37,000 BTUs – it’s more efficient than electricity, propane and even natural gas.

Insurance issues
The big concern for home buyers and REALTORS, however, relates to obtaining homeowner’s insurance for houses that have older oil tanks. Oil leaks and spills from residential fuel tanks have cost Canadian insurance companies and homeowners a lot of money in recent years. Many insurance companies now balk at insuring homes with older fuel tanks, and some provinces have passed strict new regulations governing when the tanks must be replaced. The Insurance Bureau of Canada says that insurance claims from domestic oil tank leaks have increased by more than 50 per cent in the past ten years.

The COHA says concerns about leaking oil tanks are unfounded except in the case of aging underground tanks. “Today’s state-of-the-art tanks are composed of corrosion resistant steel, fibreglass and polyethylene,” says Merril Mascarenhas, COHA spokesperson. “That means long life and real safety.”

Mascarenhas adds that obtaining insurance on an oil-heated home is not a problem as long as the tanks and equipment have been properly inspected and maintained. “In our discussions with homeowners and REALTORS, we’ve discovered that people just don’t know enough about maintaining and upgrading their furnaces,” he says. “But if the equipment has been replaced recently and/or it’s had its regular maintenance check ups, everyone’s happy – the homeowners, the insurance company and the REALTOR.”

Selling an oil heated home
When selling a home that’s heated by oil, REALTORS should ask questions regarding the age of the oil tank, location and proof that the tank installation meets safety requirements. Buyers should expect to be asked, by their insurer, to provide this type of information when applying for insurance.

The COHA suggests REALTORS recommend an inspection of the oil heating equipment by a qualified home inspector prior to closing. The buyer should also contact the fuel oil supplier for the home and determine if the basic or comprehensive inspections of the tank and oil-heating appliance have been completed. The fuel oil supplier will have information about the servicing/inspection program that is in place for the home.

For more information about the benefits of oil heat, visit www.todaysoilheat.com. Also check out the Legal Pamphlets section on the OREA members’ web site. Under “Select Pamphlet” choose “Underground (Buried) Fuel Oil Tanks” for information about Technical Standards Safety Authority (TSSA) requirements.

Fuel for thought
The Canadian Oil Heat Association (COHA) is working to change people’s opinion about fuel oil heating. Here are some of the ways they say oil heat has improved:

• Ultra clean, near zero emissions– Modern, high efficiency furnaces and a reduction of sulphur in fuel oil means cleaner air indoors and out.
• No-worry tanks– Tanks are now made of non-corrosive materials for longer life and safety.
• Higher fuel efficiency– Today’s oil heat furnaces burn approximately 2500 litres per year, an improvement and savings of over 40 per cent compared to 30 years ago.
• Long term savings– Adjusted for inflation, the price of oil heat hasn’t changed much since the 1950s. The cost of oil heat is also projected to rise at a lower rate than natural gas.
• More hot water heat– Oil heat burns hotter and heats water up to twice as fast as natural gas and five times faster than electricity.
• Safety– Oil heat is non-explosive. If exposed to a lit match the oil will not ignite.

Photography by Derek Pantling - copyrighted work, all rights reserved
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